Welcome to The Sandy Hollow!!!

Warriors of all Clans come here to train their

 apprentices and teach them the Warrior Code.

The soft sand helps when practicing battle moves,

 better go try it out..........

Become a Warrior By taking the quiz and then saving the certificate on your computer. Then  e-mail it to Sunstar (me) at warriorsoftheclans11@live.com

The Warrior Code

Defend you Clan, even with your life. You may have friendships with other Clans, but your loyalty must remain to your Clan, as one day you may meet them in battle.

Do not hunt or trespass on another Clan's territory.

Elders and kits must be fed before apprentices and warriors. Unless they have permission, apprentices may not eat until they have hunted to feed the elders.

Prey is killed only to be eaten. Give thanks to StarClan for its life.

A kit must be at least six moons old to become an apprentice.

Newly appointed warriors will keep vigil for one night after receiving their warrior name.

A cat cannot be made deputy without having mentored at least one apprentice.

The deputy will become Clan leader when the leader dies or retires.

After the death or retirement of the deputy, the new deputy must be chosen before moonhigh.

A gathering of all four Clans is held at a full moon during a truce that lasts for the night. There shall be no fighting among Clans at this time.

Boundaries must be checked and marked daily. Challenge all trespassing Clan.

No warrior may neglect a kit in pain or in danger, even if that kit is from a different Clan.

The word of the Clan leader is the warrior code.

An honorable warrior does not need to kill other cats to win his battles, unless they are outside the warrior code or it is necessary.


A warrior rejects the soft life of a kittypet.

!!Enemies to Watch out for!!

Battle Moves

Cats from any Clan can teach their apprentice from here-

One of the most important skills a mentor must teach an apprentice is how to fight. Warriors are often called upon to defend the borders or protect the Clan from attack, whether by enemy Clans or predators like badgers and foxes. Even medicine cats must learn enough fighting technique to be useful in battle.

Back kick
Explosive surprise move to catch opponent from behind. Judge opponent's distance from you carefully; then lash out with your back legs, taking your weight on your front paws.

Belly rake
A fight-stopper. Slive with unsheathed claws across soft flesh of opponent's belly. If you're pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back in control.

Front paw blow
Frontal attack. Bring your front paw down hard on your opponent's head. Claws sheathed.

Front paw strike
Frontal attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.

Killing bite
A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable (see Warrior Code). Used only as a last resort.

Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Spring onto opponent's back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyong the range of your opponent's paws and in position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way. It was deployed to great effect against BloodClan's deputy, Bone. Watch for the drop-and-roll countermove, and try to jump free before you get squashed.

Partner fighting
Warriors who have trained and fought together will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the other's back while fending off an opponent on either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for attackers.

Play dead
Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxes his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent and put you in an attacking position.

Scruff shake
Secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponent's neck; then shake violently until he or she is too rattled to fight back. Most effective against rats, which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.

Teeth grip
Target your opponent's extremities—the legs, tail, scruff, or ears—and sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap-and-hold except your claws remain free to fight.

Upright lock
Final, crushing move on already weakened opponent. Rear up on back legs and bring full weight down on opponent. If opponent does same, wrestle and flip him under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so requires great strength and speed.

New Fighting Techniques

Got a cat fighting technique you're just dying to share? Come up with a great battle plan during a roleplay that you want the world to hear about? Just e-mail me at warriorsoftheclans11@live.com me with your name and your idea and you could get posted here!

Ideal for making your opponent feel much pain, leap onto your opponent's back and put your paws over their eyes. For the moment the opponent is blinded, sink your claws into the soft skin around their eyes. If your opponent doesn't run away, take advantage of their temporary blindness and perform leap-and-hold move.
~Sunclaw (from www.freewebs.com/warriorcatsnow/)

Double death bite
Seems dishonorable and is only used against very evil cats. A partner and you take on one cat. Once you've got a hold of your opponent, your partner helps hold down enemy cat, and you both bite hard down on enemy cat's throat. Two pairs of jaws will cut off airway and cat will choke to death. Like I said, it's considered dishonorable and would only be used against evil cats like Tigerstar, Darkstripe or any cats of BloodClan. ~Ravenfeather (from www.freewebs.com/warriorcatsnow/)

Jump attack When you opponent is not looking you and another cat get together, one cat runs, jumps on their friends back and launches themselves at the opponent, clinging tightly to their body and clawing them, or biting them as much as possible, until they possibly shake you off. ~Danwfur of WindClan~